Returning from Cuba-the process

As mentioned, before you can clear customs you must pay up with the marina first.  You will pay your vessel and visa permits at that time also.

The actual checkout process goes very, very quickly.  If you are going to another marina in Cuba they will need to give you proof that you have paid your cruising fee already, if not, you are given your outbound documentation and you are off.

RE-ENTERING THE USA
Now, I'm sure this will be different depending on which port of entry you choose.  We went back to Key West and they seem to be a bit more relaxed.

Once back in cell range, Tim called the Customs & Border Protection to give them our details.
That will include:
Vessel name and documentation number
Crew names/DOB/passport number
DTOPS decal number

(if you are not familiar with the DTOPS program it's a way to allow for easier re-entry to the USA and you only have to pay $29.50 annually instead of $29.50 per re-entry into the USA.  More information about DTOPS here: DTOPS)

After you have given that information to the CBP they will give you a 16 digit confirmation number, make sure you take note of it.  You will also arrange when/where to check in with CBP.  In Key West, there are two locations: One at the Federal Court House downtown and one at the airport.

Here's another tidbit--all perishable items, even if originally bought in the USA must be brought in to be incinerated.  Once they leave the country they are considered contaminated.  You need to place the items in 2mm contractor bags or double bag it.

We were informed to meet downtown for our check in.  ALL persons on board must check in personally, not just the master of the vessel.

The process was very simple--we came in, presented our passports, went through security, met briefly with the customs officials and we were done.  The forms for re-entry I slaved over weren't even asked for.  Our Czech crew member did have to do the further check in even though she has her green card, but that didn't take more than 5 minutes.

Once again-I must say, some of this do your own research on especially on how it pertains to your point of entry.  I don't know if things seemed more relaxed due to the fact that 50 some boats and a cruise ship where coming in or if it's a Key West thing.

Some things that CAN happen, but didn't to us.
1-USCG has the right to board your vessel at any time if they know you've been to Cuba.  Keep calm and be cooperative, period.

2-CBP also has the right to come inspect your boat as part of the check-in process.

Declaring goods.  The rules about cigars and rum keep changing.  Right now the rule is you can take as much as you can for PERSONAL CONSUMPTION and as gifts.  So, a case of rum is acceptable.  A couple cartons of cigars.  Original painting are fine as long as they are no longer in the frames.  I'm still not sure I understand the reason behind that.

I don't think I missed anything major in these explanations, but if I do remember something I'll post it!

So how does this whole "Going to Cuba" thing work. - Part 2

Some thoughts about the passage over from Key West and arrival to Cuba.

Once again-Cuba is a different breed of animal as far as the rules and regulations go.  That said, it's changing all of the time.

Right now-anchoring is NOT permitted anywhere in Cuba.  They are really strict about it on the north coast, they are more relaxed about it on the southern side.

We did an overnight sail to ensure that we would arrive in Cuba in daylight.  You don't want to arrive too early because of the anchoring issue and you might find that being hove to by your channel entrance might not be welcome either.


When you enter Cuban waters you are supposed to hail the Garda Frontera and identify yourself. You most likely will not get answered.

When you are close to the marina you will hail them using proper VHF etiquette.  Make sure your VHF is on the International setting.  When they hear you they will give you instructions.  You may be told that a pilot boat is coming to lead you through the channel or you may be told to proceed with caution.  We had a pilot boat and it was very helpful.

Make sure your 'Q' flag is up and fenders/lines ready to go on your port side. The customs office is a bright blue building and they'll be waiting to help you tie off.

I detailed the customs process here: Clearing Customs.

To add to that:  We were never asked to show proof of health insurance or requested to buy it.  However, I think that was the anomaly and NOT the norm.  If you buy theirs it is around 3 CUC/day per person.

Also, if you have any satellite phones or devices like Delorme--just assure the customs officials that you do not plan to take it off your boat and that it is only to get weather reports and such info. That way you won't have to deal with it being sealed up or taken to the dockmaster's office while you are there.

The process should take approximately 45 minutes or so for a crew of four.

So how does this whole "Going to Cuba" thing work. - Part 1

Now-after all the story telling-I'm going to lay down the process we had to get to Cuba and back to the USA.

CAVEAT EMPTOR.

1-Note that this is how it worked with us, and we were with a rally. But the process is pretty much the same for travelling solo.

2-This is going to be changing constantly with both how Cuba handles it and how the USA handles it.

3-This is the process for when you are LEAVING and RETURNING to the USA only.

4-If you plan to go, check out the process yourself.  Don't depend on what your fellow cruisers (or this blog) or anybody else says. Do your own research. The difference is being prepared and good attitude or getting your boat impounded by either authority and/or denied entry to Cuba.

Now that you've been warned. It isn't a hard process at all, just be aware of what you are doing.

A great resource is the new "Waterway Guide to Cuba"

GOING TO CUBA

American cruisers with boats registered in the USA will need to do the following things before leaving.

Remember--USA still has an embargo on this country.  There will be no-Hey, let's run to Cuba this week like you would the Bahamas. Some steps must be taken first.

Office of Foreign Asset Control (OFAC)
You will need to review and make sure that you can justify your travel under one of the 12 rules of the General License. You do not have to formally apply for a license, but be able to justify why you went to Cuba.  Generally you will find that the most applicable reason is #8-Support for the Cuban people. 

You will start making a folder compiling all of your paperwork/receipts/information you collect. KEEP THIS FOR AT LEAST FIVE YEARS.  Even though we didn't formally apply for a license-we have a copy of the filled out application printed off with our statement of reason why we went.

More information can be found here: OFAC  and here: State Department

 US Department of Commerce-Bureau of Industry and Security (BIS)
If you have a US registered boat AND you plan on being in Cuba for more than 14 days, you will have to be issued an export permit by BIS.  This could take some time.  It didn't apply to us or anybody I know that has gone to Cuba by boat.  More information can be found at BIS 

United States Coast Guard
You knew the Coasties would need to get a piece of you didn't you?  Remember EMBARGO IS IN PLACE.
The USCG issues the Permit to Enter Cuban Territorial Seas (Form CG3300).  This is a must do.  Here is the link to the application.  
After you file it with them, they will usually call and/or email you that they have received your application.  CG Sector Key West contacted us.  A week before we were to travel we received both a .pdf of the signed approval and you should receive the original by mail.  As long as you receive some form of that signed approval-you know you are in their system now. 
This was a very easy process and don't sweat if if you leave Cuba earlier than what is on your permit because of weather window or other reason. You'll be calling them within 24 hours of arrival to the US anyway.

So to summarize: Print out your OFAC application for documentation purposes.  Get your export license from BIS if you are there more than 14 days and file your Form CG3300 with the USCG.

Checking out of Cuba and heading home

We began the process of checking out of Cuba the night before we left.  The first thing you do is to settle your bill with the dock master.  This is also when you pay your Cuban cruising permit and your visas.  You have to get this done first and an invoice marked with your right to clear out for Customs or you are not leaving.

We weren't the only people with this brainy idea, so we had a small wait in line.  Just as we were next the dockmaster pops out of his office, sees us all and says: No more today! I'm going home.  Then proceeds to crack up and do a little dance.  Funny guy.

We didn't think of checking our electricity consumption  before we came up, but he simply asked: Did you run a/c? Yes. Tim says we have two.  Dockmaster says, I don't want to hear that. You have one. It is cheaper.  Okay. We have one. And he asked if we filled our tanks, we did and told him our tankage.  Once again, he wouldn't let us take that times two.

So, a rough estimate of our costs.
The total was around 640 CUC—the dockmaster was taking US dollars also.  But to translate CUC to USD it would be around $760USD.

That included:
6 days dockage at ~ 45 CUC/day  (we have a 45 ft boat)
Cruising permit  for boat 55 CUC
Visas 75 CUC per person
Electricity and Water ~ it was done by rough estimate based on whether we ran A/C and filled our tanks
10% tip for the dockmaster/staff--now some people asked to have that removed, but I thought it was bad form, so we left it on. 

Once we agreed on our charges with the dockmaster, you went over to the money lady and paid the bill and she'd stamp you as cleared to leave the country on your invoice.

The next morning, you pull up the the customs dock, they do a brief inspection to make sure you don't have any stowaways and we go into the office to have our exit pictures taken (we had pictures taken in bound also).  They take the other half of our visa and at that point you can have your passport stamped or not.  Different from how it happened at the airport customs.  Everybody was very nice.

Sunrise over Cuba.

Working on the beacon at the end of the channel to Hemingway harbor.

Out the channel we go and set our course for our #1 marker on our channel.  We had done one last check of our weather and decided to motor sail it so we could beat most of it and definitely so we could get out of the Gulf Stream.

Compared to the ride down, this was a cake walk. Hardly any wind, and the Stream was flat and smooth.  What took us 18 hours to get down to Cuba was around 13 hours on the way back.

24 hours before you are due to arrive in the US, it is requested that you call the USCG of your intentions.  They have a file of your US permit to cruise Cuban waters, so they know you are out there.  Upon arrival in the US, you need to call the CBP and give them information of your crew/your boat and where you are at in the US.  They then tell you what office you need to check into and they give you a 16 digit code that indicates initial check in process has started.  See upcoming blog entry on cruising paperwork for more information.

That's a lovely way to cross the gulf stream.

We got friends visiting!

Sunset-almost two hours left to Key West.

Las Terrazas

One of the things that Cuba has done incredibly right is the preservation and reforestation of their island.

They could have so easily have gone the route of Haiti or the DR, but they didn't.  They should be commended for their efforts.

Our last day trip was to the eco-reserve of Las Terrazas.  This was an area that had been mostly stripped of its local flora for cultivation of coffee.  After the revolution, in the 1960s, they began reclaiming the area for a biological reserve.  The name of Las Terrazas is for the terracing project they did to replant trees and vegetation.

Today, Las Terrazas (along with Vinales) is an UNESCO World Heritage site and Biosphere Preserve.  So, well done Cuba.

The remains of one of the first coffee plantations is now on display with full explanation on how coffee was grown back then.

At one of the rest areas/bar.  Our first Cuban Boy Band.  (they were good)

Original plantation house.

Outdoor kitchen area.

Remains of old slave quarters by the coffee bean drying areas.

 Within the area of Las Terrazas is the village of the same name.  This village is unique in that it is a self-sustaining eco-village.  In order to be able to live there, you must sign on and adhere to the rules of the village's sustainability.  There is one small hotel there and many small artisan shops.  We stopped by where they were recycling old paper to recreate into hand made art paper and he sold paintings and prints of the area.

Drying sheets of paper hand dyed with local plants.

Other samples of the paper made.

We made stopped for lunch at the Paladar Campesino (farm worker). Beautiful area up in the mountains and he had quite the menagerie of various fowl.

 Our final stop was the Orquideario de Soroa.  Beautiful little garden with amazing examples of orchids and other plant life of the area.  There is a beautiful overlook that you can see the mogotes (mountains with rounded tops).  I would spend more time in this area to visit the waterfalls and such next time.

Remains of an old limestone wall.

A humming bird. I can't believe it sat still long enough for us to take pictures.

This would be our last night in Cuba.  We had a dinner that night with the rally on property and we also closed out what was due with the dockmaster.  We planned on an early departure so that we'd be only a few hours out from Key West before the forecasted front hit us.

Buena Vista Social Club

The band, not the place.  We found out that they were playing at the famous Hotel Nacional so we decided to go.  Fun. Fun. Fun.

They had some original band members and they were adorable.  Grandma with her 5 inch heels, you go girl.

The band interchanges musicians and instruments, there's 3-4 singers and some dancers.  Interspersed with that is some goofing off with each other. 

So glad we went.

Oh, these two. I wanted to kidnap them.

Walking around Jaimanitas and some history of Marina Hemingway.

While our crew headed off to Varadero for the day, Tim and I decided to chill after our long Vinales excursion and explore the area and check on provisions.

Since trying to get history in Cuba pre-revolutions tends to be a bit..let's say...rewritten? I had to do some research to find out the history of the marina.  It was originally built in 1953 as the Marina Barlovento Complex intended to be a playground for the wealthy with houses/hotels and private canals for boats.

Then the revolution happened.

The government took over the ownership of the marina and after that time stood still.  It was renamed Marina Hemingway after Ernest. Some of the original bungalows were torn down, we can still see the foundations from them.  Two hotels remain--both are getting worked on. One is habitable, the other....not so much, but it is being worked on.  The hotel Acuario is where you can pick up wifi (it's not very good) and you can buy a day pass to the pool. The Old Man and the Sea hotel (El Viejo y El Mar) is in desperate need of renovation.  It had been used in the past as a hostel for medical tourists and medical students.  If they can get her fixed up she has some killer views of the ocean and the Havana skyline.  There is also a small bowling alley that the locals go to.

Solar powered water heaters located on property.

The marina has an Italian/pizza restaurant, a small cafe/bakery and a Chinese restaurant.  Yes. Chinese restaurant as only Cuban government run restaurants can do chinese food, which is....not very well.  They were out of a lot of items (common with the government run properties) and vino 'no es bueno' and indeed it was not. 

Besides the restaurants there was a chandelry-which supplies pretty much anything but stuff for your boat.  They had wine, rum, jellies by the pack, butter (!-not easy to get in Cuba), cheeses and things that weren't at the actual market.  However, the lovely gentleman at the chandelry could probably have helped us out if needed.  The main store had bottle water, sodas, every ripoff of Kellog's cereals you could imagine.  A row of what appeared to be manicotti and other assorted pastas and some paper products.  There was also a government run liquor store attached to the market and a meat market attached to the store.

For some reason, I don't seem to have pictures of all of these places.

All products-including those in the chandelry--is based on what can be acquired on a delivery by delivery basis.

We ran over to the bakery to by their last loaf of Pan Molde (loaf of bread) and I decided to add a bag of small croissants last minute.  Let's just say Pan Molde 'no es bueno'.  The croissants were marvelous.  If we had waited, we could have bought non-government bread from the bakery/electronics shop just outside the marina.  Lesson learned.

Improvements are being made to the marina itself, new lighting around the facility and new pedestals have been installed at most of the slips.

 We walked around the small of Jaimanitas outside the marina finally winding up at this paladar called Restaurante Santy Pescador.  It is a sushi restaurant.  Yes. Sushi.  Admittedly we weren't brave enough to go Cuban sushi, but the restaurant gets rave reviews for its fresh fish.  We wound up having the seafood pasta which was delicious, and there was a ton of it, we should have shared.  No menu, she just rattles off what they have available that day.  I didn't know all the spanish seafood names and she wasn't sure of all the english names so we stayed with what we understood.

Santy is a licensed fisherman and the paladar is located on the inlet of the Rio Jaimanitas.  There is a small working marina of fishing boats, everything a bit haphazard as far as docks and facilities.

I'm sure when we go again, we'll be exploring outside the marina more.

Rio Jaimanitos. Santy's is the wooden building in the center of the picture.

First Place trophy from the Hemingway Fishing Tournament

Upstairs at Santy's.

I would laugh. But I used to have a boat at a marina that wasn't much better.

Day Trip to Vinales

Hold on to your bootstraps--this is a long one.

Today was our day trip to Vinales--a rural valley west of Havana about 2 hours.  We had a 7:30am departure, luckily we had decided to take it easy the night before.  Our tour guides were great, the bus driver was great also, I wouldn't want to drive a full size tour bus on those mountain roads.

For awhile we were on the main 'interstate' of Cuba.  Four lanes, but, like everything else, a bit dilapidated.  Not many cars, but different traffic sources coming from horse carts, oxen carts, loose farm life wandering about.

Not much traffic.

Very common sight.

Accident.  I think it involved a motorcycle and a palm frond.
Not kidding. Not kidding at all.

We took a short rest stop at a government run rest area.  Very nice, with a bar/coffee shop (of course), gift shop and restrooms.  It was also a bit staged with the neighboring farmer bringing out his livestock.  I'm sure to show how the rural folk live--quaint nevertheless.  

Time to take the pig for a swim!

Cuban barn.

We stopped first at this awesome little hotel that has an overlook over part of the Vinales area. It would have a great place to stay for a few days, lots of things to do based from the hotel. 

Psst. Watch out, the KGB are here.

Vinales is where they tried to grow grapes for wine at one time.  It didn't work out, the wine was crap.  So, now other crops are grown there, mainly tobacco and done in a very traditional way-as in, not farm implements, but by hand. The orginal tobacco farmers came from the Canary Islands.  Geographically, the place is beautiful. With unique limestone cliffs and mountains.  

Our next stop was the cave-Cordillero de Guaniguanico which runs completely throughout La Sierra Guasasa.  The cave starts out with a bar (surprise!) and at the other end is a recreation of a Palenque de los Cimarrones.  Escaped slaves merged with the local Taino Indian population.

Not quite the Budweiser Clydesdales, but she'll do.

I have to hand it to some of our group who partook of the bar in the morning.
I guess Tim and I haven't been sailing long enough yet.

Sculpture in the cave.
Designed to scare the crap out of you. (or at least me)

Recreation of the settlement with dancing and singing.

Another sculpture showing slave rebelling.

From the Palenque we walked down to a tobacco farm where we got a tour of the growing/drying and rolling of the cigars.  80% of the farmers crop goes to the state, the other 20% he makes his own artisanal blend from by soaking the leaves in a mixture of coffee, vanilla, cinnamon and other spices.  All of which he grows on the farm.

Drying of the leaves.

Outside of the drying shed.  Completely made from palm fronds.

The tobacco here was hand harvested. He has a small knife on his thumb.

Me being an asshat, takinga  picture of the Cruising World photographer John
taking a picture of momma cow.  Momma cow was not happy and had already
started stomping her feet.  I was hoping to get a picture of him being
chased by the cow.
(I told John this story later-he laughed)

Rodents Of Unusual Size. aka Hutia. aka dinner most likely.
Bonus points if you got the Princess Bride reference.

Pressing fresh juice from the sugar cane for drinks.

Nice. That's all I got.

Small banana grove.

Our tobacco farmer. 
Or somebody called up from central casting. You decide.

Besides the ubiquitous cattle, chickens, dogs and cats, they also had some very large rodents called Hutia in a cage.  The tour guide said they were pets, but I researched that later and I'm pretty sure they were going to be dinner (and why not?).  Cubans are not allowed to raise cattle for beef--they are used for the production of dairy products, only very few have the license to raise beef for consumption.  Even then, I think a lot of the beef comes from other countrie

After visiting the tobacco farm we went back to the village of Vinales to have lunch at the Finca Agroecologica El Paraiso.  A family run restaurant in which every menu item (except fish) is grown on their farm.  Everything is completely organic, no pesticides or chemical fertilizers.

In a word. Delicious.  Simply the best meal hands down we had in Cuba.  There was plenty of it.  Everything is served family style with what is ready to go that day.  We had root vegetable stew, 3 different salads, 2-3 appetizers, the ubiquitous rice and beans, plaintains, chicken, pork fish and flan for dessert. Also included is their special Anti-Stress Cocktail'.  Basically it is a pina colada with their own special blend of herbals (yerba buena, mint, basil, anise, etc).  It is served to you virgin and then they plop down a bottle of rum for you to doctor it up yourself. The rum is 'Vitamin R'.

The restaurant overlooks their farm and the presentation garden of veggies and flowers.  Just a stupendously beautiful view out over the valley.  It was an amazing experience.  The family is delightful and you feel like you are at a big family dinner with them.

The gang trying to keep up with all the food.

 

View from our table.

Daughter of the original owner. Sassy one, adorable.

Part of the farm available for tour

View of the restaurant from below.

Typical traffic in the area.

These busses actually take workers to the farms.
(I thought they might be for prisoners at first--whoops)

 After a brief stop in the downtown area of Vinales to walk off lunch, we made one last stop at the Mural de Prehistoria. The mural is a bit of a misnomer since it ISN'T prehistoric, but more of a modern art interpretation of prehistoric life done in the '60s. It's quite....um......colorful?  if you ever want to entertain yourself, read the reviews about it online.  Especially those who expected to see real prehistoric art. 

There is a restaurant/bar/gift shop there also.  Another small bar featured pina coladas for 3 CUC--you add the Havana Club.  Delicious.  Everything is made from fresh pineapple and coconut milk.  I must have offended the bartender on my pour size because he shook his head at me and gave me another shot.  Yep, I'm sleeping on the way home!

The mural.

Pina colada--medicate yourself.